First Layer Issues

Nozzle too close to the bed
  • Signs that your nozzle might be too close to the bed:
    • Printed line is way thinner than desired. It might get so thin it turns transparent.
    • Excess filament is squished upwards at the edges of the current printing line creating a rough surface and wavy patterns. (You can feel the roughness when touching it carefully even during the print).
    • Filament is getting torn off the bed when the next neighbouring line is printed.
    • Finished prints are hard to remove from the print bed.
  • Explanation:
    • If your nozzle is too close to the bed, there is not enough space between the nozzle and the bed to extrude the proper amount of filament. Excess filament is either squished upwards between individual printed lines or isn’t extruded at all creating additional pressure in the HotEnd.
    • Excess filament that gets squished to the sides and upwards might get torn off the bed on the next pass by the nozzle destroying adhesion and making the top of your first layer very rough to the touch.
    • Excess filament might also get picked up by the nozzle and might drip back on your print later. This is especially common for PETG.
    • If filament backs up in the HotEnd because it cannot get extruded due to the nozzle being too close to the bed, your extruder might even get jammed and start clicking.
    • Squishing your first layer too much into the bed can lead to prints that are almost impossible to remove from the build plate when done.
  • How to fix:
    • Adjust nozzle to bed distance either by tightening the 3 or 4 levelling screws of your printer and using thicker paper stock for manual bed levelling or by adjusting your z-offset value when using a bed levelling sensor. Make sure you’re not pressing down on your bed when levelling it.
Print not sticking to bed
  • Signs that your print isn’t sticking
    • Your print is lifting off the bed, such as warping, or returning to your printer with a birds nest (as per image in ‘Print Not Sticking To The Bed’ section below).
  • Explanation
    • In this instance it’s likely your print has popped off the bed after slight warping, due to insufficient adhesion.
    • This can happen on the first layer (less likely) or several layers into the print.
    • If your print has warped, but remained adhered to the bed, see [Warping].
  • How to fix:
Nozzle too far away from the print bed
  • Signs that your nozzle is too far away from the print bed:
      • When looking at the bottom of your printed object, you can clearly make out individual lines with a noticeable gap between each line.
      • During printing the first layer, the individual lines are not touching each other.
      • There’s small gaps where the lines of the infill are not touching the outlines of the wall.
      • The shape of the extruding line is very round. With the proper distance, extruded line is slightly squished, pancake shaped.
      • Individual printed lines are barely sticking to the build plate.
      • Parts are warping off the build plate or become loose during the prints.
    • Description:
      • If your nozzle is too far from the bed there is not enough filament extruded to properly fill the space between nozzle and bed. The line currently extruding is barely making contact with the bed. Individual lines making up the first layer are not connected to their neighbours and they’re not touching the outlines of your objects wall. All this usually this leads to poor adhesion problems like warping or detaching of your object mid print.
    • How to fix:
      • Adjust nozzle to bed distance either by loosening the 3 or 4 levelling screws of your printer and using thinner paper stock (receipt paper is good) for manual bed levelling or by adjusting your z-offset value when using a bed levelling sensor. Make sure you’re not pressing the bed upwards while levelling manually.
Filament Specific Tips
  • PLA likes to be squished more into the bed than other filament types to provide good adhesion.
  • PETG usually prints better with a higher nozzle to bed distance to avoid the nozzle picking up filament that might drip on your print later during the print. Also, the extra distance helps prevent excessive adhesion issue that for example might occur when printing on glass or PEI beds.
  • TPU and Flexible PLA will also adhere stronger than you might like if printed too close to a PEI or specialist bed surface (such as BuildTak).

Print Not Sticking to Bed

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Bed Needs to be Cleaned
  • Signs that your bed needs to be cleaned
    • The bed isn’t spotless clean, if you see debris from a previous print, dust, gunk, spots, etc.
    • You see lumps, build-up or an uneven coat of your favourite bed adhesive.
    • Look at the bottom of a finished print: do you see some dents in an otherwise smooth bottom surface that shouldn’t be there? If so, chances are high something was or is still sticking to the bed there that caused the dent (or the nozzle was too close in that spot). When printing the first layer over a fingerprint on a glass plate for example, you can usually see the print bubble up in that spot
  • Explanation
    • A dirty print surface will make your adhesion suffer. Any debris from previous prints needs to be removed before starting a new print. If your nozzle rumbles over leftover remnants of your previous prints it will start bouncing and it might introduce vibration in your printer depending on how stiff your bed carrier may be.
    • Often overlooked is the detrimental effect of oily or greasy residue on your print surface, like for example a mere fingerprint.
  • How to fix:
    • Degrease your bed surface regularly according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use either isopropyl alcohol/isopropanol in a high concentration or pure acetone. Stay away from window cleaners, dish washing liquids and soaps, especially those who are supposed to be good for your skin, as most of them will leave a residue behind that will negatively affect bed adhesion.
Nozzle too far away from the print bed
  • Signs that your nozzle is too far away from the print bed:
      • When looking at the bottom of your printed object, you can clearly make out individual lines with a noticeable gap between each line.
      • During printing the first layer, the individual lines are not touching each other.
      • There’s small gaps where the lines of the infill are not touching the outlines of the wall.
      • The shape of the extruding line is very round. With the proper distance, extruded line is slightly squished, pancake shaped.
      • Individual printed lines are barely sticking to the build plate.
      • Parts are warping off the build plate or become loose during the prints.
    • Description:
      • If your nozzle is too far from the bed there is not enough filament extruded to properly fill the space between nozzle and bed. The line currently extruding is barely making contact with the bed. Individual lines making up the first layer are not connected to their neighbours and they’re not touching the outlines of your objects wall. All this usually this leads to poor adhesion problems like warping or detaching of your object mid print.
    • How to fix:
      • Adjust nozzle to bed distance either by loosening the 3 or 4 levelling screws of your printer and using thinner paper stock (receipt paper is good) for manual bed levelling or by adjusting your z-offset value when using a bed levelling sensor. Make sure you’re not pressing the bed upwards while levelling manually.
Check Extrusion Setting
  • Signs the wrong amount of plastic is extruding
    • In general: signs that you’re not extruding the proper amount of plastic are either under- or over-extrusion, infill leaving gaps, walls turn out too thin and layers not thick enough (not squished). However, for the first layer, there is usually no clear indication, as the result looks the same when your nozzle to bed distance is wrong. (So your best bet is to eliminate extrusion issues by doing a proper extruder calibration before leveling your bed & setting the nozzle to bed distance).
  • Explanation
    • When levelling your bed, you’re also setting a nozzle to bed distance. This distance (unless compensated by the printer) needs to match your first layer height and the amount of plastic that is actually extruded while printing your first layer. If your printer is not extruding enough plastic to fill the distance between nozzle and bed (3D printer under extrusion), you will end up with adhesion problems. Too much, or over-extrusion and you have excess filament that needs to go somewhere.
  • How to fix:
    • Calibrate the extruder steps required to extrude the requested amount of filament.
    • Check your extrusion multiplier in your slicer software to ensure proper amount of filament is extruded.
    • Check that you selected the proper filament size (1.75mm/2.85mm/3.00mm) in your slicer.
    • Ensure filament can be transported properly (i.e. filament unspools freely from the spool, no excess friction in the filament path).
    • Ensure nozzle isn’t blocked or partially blocked. This is a very common cause of under-extrusion or uneven extrusion. See [Clogged Nozzle].
Bed Temperature First Layer
  • Signs your bed temperature is incorrect:
    • There are lots of different issues that can lead to adhesion problems and the end result always looks the same: prints not sticking / warping. Compare your slicer settings with the recommendations from the filament manufacturer. One indication that your bed temperature might be too high is the [Elephant foot]or curling close to the bed, where the defect gets less pronounced the further away from the bed you get.
  • Explanation:
    • Bed temperature (if your printer is equipped with a heated bed) has a lot of influence on how well your first layer will stick to the bed. A colder bed usually decreases adhesion, a hotter bed will increase adhesion. But do not set your bed temperature too high. A common problem we’re seeing from our customers is setting the bed temperature way too high for the material they’re printing with. You need to stay around 10°C below the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the filament you’re trying to print. rigid.ink Tg are available in the data sheet downloads, in the settings tab on the product pages.
  • How to fix:
    • Look up the glass transition temperature of the material you’re printing. Ensure your bed temperature is at least around 10°C below the glass transition temperature. If your bed is far below the glass transition temperature and you’re having trouble with your print not sticking, increase your bed temperature in 5°C increments until the issue is resolved (staying below the GT temp).
    • For rigid.ink PLA for example, do not exceed 50°C. More is not better. If your bed is too hot, you will increase warping forces and the risk of prints warping or even detaching during the print is increased instead of prevented – and you’ll invite other problems later on in the prints, like Elephant foot or caved in walls.
Use Build Plate Adhesion Helpers
  • Signs you need to use a build plate adhesion helper:
      • If you have checked all of the above and your print is still not sticking, you may want to consider using a build plate adhesion helper.
    • Explanation
      • Adhesion helpers can be as simple as using a brim or a raft. Or if you’re using an M3D wave bonding will also assist. Or you can experiment with different surfaces or coatings for your print bed like for example:
      • Permanent surfaces:
        • PEI
        • PrintBite/FR-4/Garolite
        • BuildTak/FakeTak
        • Phenolic sheet/FR-2
        • Naked glass
      • Temporary coatings:
        • Glue stick
        • ABS Juice (Slurry)
        • PVA Wood glue
        • Vinyl-based hairspray/3DLac
        • Sugar/Saltwater
        • Magigoo
        • Kapton TapePainters Tape/Blue Tape
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.
Nozzle too close to the bed
  • Signs that your nozzle might be too close to the bed:
    • Printed line is way thinner than desired. It might get so thin it turns transparent.
    • Excess filament is squished upwards at the edges of the current printing line creating a rough surface and wavy patterns. (You can feel the roughness when touching it carefully even during the print).
    • Filament is getting torn off the bed when the next neighbouring line is printed.
    • Finished prints are hard to remove from the print bed.
  • Explanation:
    • If your nozzle is too close to the bed, there is not enough space between the nozzle and the bed to extrude the proper amount of filament. Excess filament is either squished upwards between individual printed lines or isn’t extruded at all creating additional pressure in the HotEnd.
    • Excess filament that gets squished to the sides and upwards might get torn off the bed on the next pass by the nozzle destroying adhesion and making the top of your first layer very rough to the touch.
    • Excess filament might also get picked up by the nozzle and might drip back on your print later. This is especially common for PETG.
    • If filament backs up in the HotEnd because it cannot get extruded due to the nozzle being too close to the bed, your extruder might even get jammed and start clicking.
    • Squishing your first layer too much into the bed can lead to prints that are almost impossible to remove from the build plate when done.
  • How to fix:
    • Adjust nozzle to bed distance either by tightening the 3 or 4 levelling screws of your printer and using thicker paper stock for manual bed levelling or by adjusting your z-offset value when using a bed levelling sensor. Make sure you’re not pressing down on your bed when levelling it.
First Layer too Fast
  • Signs that the first layer is printing too fast
    • The obvious sign that you are printing too fast is when the extruder can’t keep up with pushing filament through at this speed and you see [Under Extrusion]. This is true for the 1st layer as well, but you’ll have to be way off for it to show. Determining the proper first layer speed is more “subtle”, the result is simply poor bed adhesion and there is no tell-tale sign that says: “adhesion failed because it was printed too fast”. Look at your slicer settings instead.
  • Explanation:
    • The speed you’re printing your first layer at has direct influence over how well the molten filament bonds to the bed surface. Print slower to increase adhesion. Or faster to decrease adhesion. Since we’re talking about prints not sticking to the bed, we want to increase adhesion, therefore print slower.
  • How to fix:
    • Every proper slicer out there has the option to specify a different print speed for your first layer. In Cura, it is called “Initial Layer speed”. In Simplify3D it is called “First Layer Speed”. We’re pretty sure your slicer has this setting as well, under some variation of those names. Usually a speed of 30mm/s or less is good for the first layer, you can increase the speed later on but experimenting is key.
Print Temperature of First Layer
  • Signs the first layer print temperature is incorrect
    • There are lots of different issues that can lead to adhesion problems and the end result always looks the same: prints not sticking / warping. Unless you’re way off there is no telltale sign when dealing with adhesion issues that clearly says: your temperature was off. It either sticks or it doesn’t stick & warps. Later on in a print, problems like rough corners, curling or sloppy overhangs – or printing a temperature tower – will give better indications if your temperature might be off in general.
  • Explanation:
    • Many 3D printing first layer problems are caused from the incorrect printing temperature during the first layer as it directly affects adhesion to the build plate. Printing colder will decrease adhesion. Printing hotter (to a point) will increase adhesion. Stay within the manufacturers suggested range, at least around 10°C below the glass transition temperature.
  • How to fix:
    • Almost all slicers out there will allow you to set a different print temperature for your first/initial layer. Use this feature to adjust bed adhesion without it affecting the rest of your print.
    • Printing colder will decrease adhesion. Printing hotter (to a point) will increase adhesion. But do not exceed the maximum recommended print temperature for the filament you’re using to avoid the filament deteriorating in the HotEnd, which might lead to clogs. Print as cool as possible while maintaining proper adhesion is best.
Part Cooling Fan Setting
  • Signs you need to check your part cooling fan settings:
    • If your part cooling fan is spinning while printing the very first layer you need to look at your fan settings.
  • Explanation:
    • Enabled part cooling fans harden the printed line before proper bonding has occurred. This causes poor adhesion and warping might occur.
    • You want to allow the currently extruding line of filament to bond with the bed surface. This applies to all our filaments and is especially important to check with PLA.
  • How to fix:
    • Disable the part cooling fan for the first layer.

Prints Sticking too Much

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.

Warping

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.

Inconsistent extrusion: how to fix over extrusion

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.

Filament not Feeding Properly

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.

Extruder is Grinding Filament

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.

Extruder is crushing filament other filament issues

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.

Other Filament Issues

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.

Clogging Issues

Platform not Level
  • Signs that your platform is not level
    • You will be experiencing either [Nozzle too close]or [Nozzle too far] (or both) at the same time along the X or Y axis. Or in other words: if the left side of your nozzle is too close and the right side it is fine or even too high up, your bed is most likely at an angle – not level with the nozzle. Same goes for front and back and of course this can happen in both axis at the same time.
  • Explanation
    • When your platform isn’t properly levelled, i.e. the nozzle to bed distance varies in different locations across the bed, your nozzle might be too close in some areas and too far away in others.
  • How to fix:
    • On most printers, the print bed is levelled by adjusting 3 or 4 screws under the print bed. (If your printer is equipped with a bed levelling automatic, this step might not be necessary even though it won’t hurt to do it manually at least once initially). Levelling is actually not the correct term for what we’re doing, but that’s what everybody is calling it. What we’re doing is to make sure that the gap between the nozzle tip and the bed is the same all across the bed. Hence: bed and nozzle are “level” with each other.
    • In order to do so:
      • Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean (and no filament is oozing out during the levelling process).
      • Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed.
      • Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it.
      • Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag.
      • Do so for at least all for corners, then check the middle of the bed.
    • This might require multiple passes, as turning one screw usually affects the other screws as well. At the same time while we’re levelling the bed, we’re also setting the nozzle to bed distance. By using thicker or thinner paper in this process you also set the nozzle to bed distance at the same time. The receipt paper from your last grocery store purchase for example sets the nozzle to bed distance that usually works quite well for PLA while thicker paper might work better for PETG.
Platform is Warped
  • Signs your platform is warped
    • While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of[Nozzle too close] or [Nozzle too far].
    • One way to easily tell if your bed is warped would be to use a steel ruler or a straight edge, put it onto your bed and look at the gap between the edge and the bed. You might be surprised. Another way to find out: if you levelled the bed for all 4 corners, but the midpoint or some random points on the bed are off, then your bed is warped (or the axis bent).
  • Explanation:
    • As with platform not level (above), a warped build plate will cause issues with the nozzle to bed distance. Uneven or warped build platforms is the most common mechanical problem we’ve seen in today’s 3D printers and it can be observed in all price classes and all bed surfaces. Neither a milled aluminium plate, FR-4 board, or even a glass sheet is guaranteed to be 100% even.
  • How to fix:
    • Usually you can work around warped build plates by printing a very thick first layer (but do not exceed maximum layer height = 75% nozzle size. i.e. 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle). If all else fails, try printing with a raft. Also, with a warped build plate, leveling your bed in such a way that your nozzle to bed distance fits in a smaller area will allow you to work reliably with at least part of a warped build plate.
    • Or in other words, when dealing with a warped bed do not try to level your bed at the 4 outermost corners, but pick a smaller area in the center of the build plate and try to level it as best as possible there. Idea behind this is, most of the prints seldom require the whole bed, so make a smaller area work well.
Neo Crucible